SB 19, Day 7

Today was a gorgeous day. 72, sunny and not a cloud in the sky. We had planned to go to a particular park outside of Verona. 

Problem was, every person within an hour radius also thought this was a good plan. We never even made it, declaring the traffic ridiculous. 

So we joined the other half of northern Italy at Lake Garda. It was gorgeous. We ate lunch on the water, strolled the alleyways, checked out the medieval fortress and ate gelato... which, by the way, is necessarily daily (at least according to Grant).

After that, we headed to a thermal hot spring. The region is littered with them, and we're felt quite local sunbathing and swimming in the warm spring. 

Ravenous, we headed to a small TripAdvisor find for dinner. The two owners split the cooking and waitstaff duties and were charmingly hospitable. We felt like old friends at the end of the night, and the food was sublime. 

We leave the warmth of Italy tomorrow with full bellies and a lifetime of memories. Into the cold once more...

SB 19, Day 6

Verona. I love you. Like, I really, really do. Like, be my boyfriend... with your medieval wall and castle, your Roman ruins and your unbelievably vibrant walking district. 

We started the morning with Grant's birthday experience: a walking food tour. These food tours are great ways to get the "lay of the land," so to speak. You get a little history, a little culture, and lots of food. We joined two UK couples who were completely delightful and acted as surrogate grandparents, complete with holding hands and helping to cross streets.

We started with local polenta and arborio pastries and coffee. Then, it was homemade pasta which we saw the shop owner make. Then wine. Then salami and cheeses. Then gelato. It was brilliant. 

After the tour and for the rest of the afternoon and evening, we found ourselves amidst one of Europe's largest protest weekends. There was something exciting about so many people coming together, but when the riot gear came out, we were done people watching and off to dinner. Verona is alive with people right now. I don't imagine it is usually this busy, but even with tens of thousands of extra peeps, the city still feels quiet in spots. 

Dinner. Outside. 70 degrees. Sitting near the Roman-built arena (which is older than the Coliseum in Rome) eating pizza and pasta and laughing. 

Simply put, Verona is everything I wanted Italy to be. 

SB 19, Day 5

Today, we headed to Venice. We walked and walked and walked and walked. Grant ate and ate and ate and ate. The first part of the day, up until lunch, we allowed ourselves to get off the main corridors and wander the less seen Venice. 

Trent was doing great with all the walking until, despite our hours of prep on the subject, he discovered Venice's pigeon population. There were tears and loud proclamations of wanting to go back to school. 

After a very great lunch at a very authentic local spot, we decided to head toward St Mark's square. That's when we discovered that:

1. Venice is crowded. We were there in the off season on a beautifully cool day. I have no idea how to pack more people on to that island, especially in the heat. 

2. The same shops repeat every five storefronts: Murano glass, souvenirs, gelato, restaurant/pizza, high end clothier. Repeat. I felt like I was looking at the same thing again and again and again. 

3. As such, for me, Venice is a one and done. I am glad I visited. I am really glad I visited. But, I don't think it captures real Italy for me, so I don't need to go back. 

We enjoyed our time at St. Mark's and checked out the Doge's palace and the Bridge of Sighs before heading back and calling it a day. 

We drove just a bit out of town, landed some great sushi, as we ready for tomorrow. 

SB 19, Day 4

Today, we left Salzburg and headed south,  entering Germany again. We visited the 500 year old (still working) salt mine at Berchtesgaden.

The kids were mesmerized by the train ride into the mountain, the two miners' slides that are the traditional form of movement between levels, the mirror lake inside the mine, and the steep funicular ride back out. Mom and her claustrophobia had a nice tea at the cafe.

From there, we headed up the mountain for a lunch with the best view (like maybe on the planet). We ate meat, cheeses, sausages, and Grant mistakenly ate a pile of freshly grated horseradish that he thought was grated cheese. However, the real star, aside from the view, was dessert. Just imagine cream puffs the size of your entire head, filled with cream,  ice cream and sauce. Heaven. 

Trent was too tired to care. 

Back in the car, we headed toward the Italian border, stopping just shy in Villach, Austria where we toured another playground, walked the old town streets, ate pizza and bought cookies and cannoli in the street market. 

Until tomorrow and Italy. 

SB 19, Day 3

The feet might ache... but the heart is full.  

This morning, amid cold and mist, we took off walking around the old town of Salzburg. We stumbled upon an outdoor market where Grant declined the donut pretzel in favor of the traditional one. Don't worry. I schooled him upon his return. 

We then headed into a century old punch and spirit maker. The kids drank hot punch while Bret tried a few of the different schnapps, which might have been necessary as we next stumbled into a shop called The Sound of Music World. 

Then,  after a quick game of street keep away, we headed to Grace's birthday experience...

the edelweiss cooking school where we made traditional apple strudel and salzburger nockerl. We were the only students, and the kitchen was built into the side of the mountain. We split up into teams: boys versus girls. We had a blast!

After stuffing our faces, we headed to Mirabell Gardens.

Then we were off to another nearby playground. 

Finally, we ended the night at a local restaurant high above the city with quite a view. 

Tomorrow, another adventure or two.